A Bollinger Champagnes Tasting in Singapore

A new tie-up between local wine company Enoteca Singapore and Champagne House Bollinger. Enoteca recently organized a workshop on Bollinger champagnes to introduce its latest addition to local wine professionals. It was held at St Pierre (Singapore).

Pictures of this tasting and be viewed via this link:
Bollinger Champagnes Tasting Photo Album 

Bastien Mariani of Bollinger Champagne

This is not to say that folks here were unaware about Bollinger; it is a well known House after all. To prove this point, when Bastien Mariani (export area manager) of Champagne Bollinger asked if we knew of this House, a few participants promptly went “Sure, the James Bond Champagne”. I suspect Bastien is used to hearing replies in similar vein. He took it in his stride and answered “yes, but there’s more to Bollinger champagnes as well” with a playful smile.

The Presentation

During the presentation, Bastien highlighted several factors which over the years have helped this House with its continued success. Some notable factors were:

a. Owning its own vineyards (presently about 165 hectares within the Champagne region) helps this House implement its own viticultural standards and practices. This goes a long way to ensure quality of its grapes. Currently 97 hectares are under Pinot Noir cultivation, 38 hectares under Chardonnay and 30 hectares used for Pinot Meunier.

b. The conscious choice of using Pinot Noir as the dominant grape varietal for its champagnes is highlighted as a winning formula.

c. The reserve wines of this Houser are stored in Magnum bottles and stored under cork, which according to Bastien, offers winemakers a good quality of base wines to work with.

d. Fermentation is undertaken in barrels and the finished champagnes are aged way longer than stipulated by appellation rules; a process which goes to produce elegant and complex sips.

e. This House has always been a family owned concern, which gives it a degree of freedom in running its own affairs; making it all the more easier to focus on producing and maturing champagnes in a manner the owners are satisfied with.

The Tasting & Wine Personalities

The Special Cuvee Brut N.V. and Bollinger Rose N.V. showed as light bodied, crisp natured sips with persistent flavor offerings in the palate. Both displayed vibrant bodies with refreshing personalities. Between these two, I was delightfully seduced by the delicate red fruits and berry notes in the Rose, its personality revealing itself via tiny playful bubbles which teases one’s nose and palate.

La Grande Annee 2005 and La Grande Annee Rose 2005 were different creatures compared to the earlier champagnes. These were strong, sturdy sips (both in aromas and flavor offerings). Aging has blessed these sips with good weight, depth and long lasting finish. Again the Rose with its red fruits flavours and slightly spicy undertones seem to capture my preference. The sommelier at St Pierre served these champagnes in white wine glasses. Definitely a good call, as these sturdy sips deserved larger glasses to better appreciate them.

 

The last champagne served was the Bollinger R.D. 2002. If the last two were about sturdy champagnes with complex personalities; the Bollinger R.D. 2002 was about powerful presence. There’s certainly nothing shy about this sip. It surprises the palate with a strong, bold presence and demands attention; one which I was more than happy to give. It's not often that I get an opportunity to taste an age-worthy champagne which displays such power, personality and finesse. This champagne certainly offered a learning experience for me.

Additional Information

For those keen, here’s some technical information on the champagnes tasted above:

Special Cuvee Brut N.V. Blend consist of: 60% pinot noir, 25% chardonnay, 15% pinot meunier (over 85% of Grands and Premiers crus used). Aged for more than twice the time required by appellation production rules.

Bollinger Rose N.V. Blend consist of: 62% pinot noir, 24% chardonnay, 14% pinot meunier (again over 85% of Grands and Premiers crus used). Aged for more than twice the time required by appellation production rules.

La Grande Annee 2005 Blend consist of: 70% pinot noir and 30% chardonnay. Grapes from 13 crus; Pinot noir mainly from Ay and Verzenay; and Chardonnay from Avize. Chouilly and Mesnil-sur-Oger. 95% of Grand crus and 5% Premier crus used. Fermented entirely in barrels; and aged for more than twice the time required by appellation production rules. Only produced in exceptional vintages.

La Grande Annee Rose 2005 Blend consist of: 72% pinot noir and 28% chardonnay. Grapes originating from 13 crus; Pinot noir mainly from Ay and Verzenay; Chardonnay from Avize, Chouilly and Mesnil-sur-Oger; with 5% of red wine contributed by Cote aux Enfants wine. 95% Grand crus and 5% Premier crus used. Aged for more than twice the time required by appellation production rules.

Bollinger R.D. 2002 Blend consist of: 60% Pinot noir and 40% chardonnay. Grapes come from 23 crus; 71% Grand crus and 29% Premiers crus. Only the very est amog vintage champagnes become Bollinger R.D. Very long maturation, more than three times the time required by appellation production rules.

Launch of BY.OTT rose wine in Singapore

 ... if you fancy something light, fresh and delicate.

The launch of a new rose wine in Singapore. The wine is BY.OTT, Cotes de Provence 2015 (its first vintage and release to wine consuming folks around the world). The local representative (and organizer of this tasting) Grand Vin Pte Ltd, chose Capella (Singapore) for this event. Held on a hot afternoon at an open air spot overlooking the pool and sea, the introduction of a new rose wine seemed a welcoming proposition and certainly a treat.

 

BY.OTT Rose 2015

Christophe Renard (Director des Ventes) from Domaines OTT* was at hand to share about this latest rose wine and the Company that produces it..

Christophe Renard of Domaines OTT*

A little background on this Domaine and its estates

Marcel Ott founded this Domaine back in 1912 with the purchase of Chateau de Selle in Tarandeau (near Draguignan, Provence). It being a post-phylloxera period, Marcel made it a point to replant the vines to ensure the quality of grapes for his wines. Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Grenache and Cinsault varietals are grown here and used for its rose and red wines.

The second estate, Clos Mirelle, was bought and replanted in 1930s. Located along the Mediterranean sea at La Londe Les Maures, Provence, it was bought in the 1930s and the vines were replanted as well. Grenache, Cinsault ad Syrah varietals are used to produce its rose wines; while Semillon and Rolle varietals are used for white wines.

The third estate, Chateau Romassan, was acquired in 1956. Its located in the Bandol commune, found in the west of the Var department. The vines here were replanted as well. Mourvedre, Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah varietals are used for its rose wines; while Mouvedre, Grenache and Cinsualt varietals for its red wines.

In 2004 Domaines OTT* joined the prominent Champagne House, Louis Roederer. At present it’s co-managed by Christian and Jean-Francois Ott (both cousins). In relation to this part of the world, Japan, Hong Kong, Singapore and Australia are it’s important markets.

The BY.OTT rose wine

The BY.OTT rose wine is the latest addition to the wines of Domaines OTT*. It’s made in Chateau de Selle estate; however, it is not a product of this estate alone. The ‘blends’ for this rose comes from Chateau de Selle, Clos Mirelle and 2 other selected growers form Provence as well.

The aim, highlighted Christophe Renard, is to produce a rose which expresses fruit and freshness with finesse and elegance. The varietals chosen to aid this endeavour are Grenache (the main component) together with Cinsault and Syrah.

This rose showed a clear wine in a light pink robe. Aromas of fresh cherry and hint of peach reveal on the nose. Palate was fresh and the first sip certainly refreshing. The delicate, light-plus body displayed youthful exuberance and flavours of red berries, citrus highlights and a hint of spice. Crisp acidity keeps the body playful and alife. It provided a pleasant, fresh finish; one much appreciated during the hot afternoon.

A few more Domaines OTT* wines

Apart from this rose wine, we had the opportunity to taste a few other wines from this Domaine as well:
2014 Domaines OTT Clos Mirelle, Rose Coeur de Grain
2014 Domaines OTT Clos Mirelle, Blanc de Blancs
2011 Domaines OTT Chateau Romassan, Rouge Bandol

While all wines stood well on their own, I must say the 2014 Blanc de Blanc did well when paired with the tapas served during the afternoon. It was a youthful, lively sip with good flavours to enjoy, possessed a good structure to pair with food, offered balance in body, a smooth texture with a suppleness to add. Vibrant in palate, it possessed lively acidity which kept this wine fresh from first attack to finish.

Olivier Leflaive Wines

There’s wines produced by Domaine Leflaive and there’s wines produced by Olivier Leflaive; Jean Soubeyrand patiently explained to a question posed to him. He was in Singapore recently to share about Olivier Leflaive’s negociant business and wines.

Jean Soubeyrand
 

Olivier Leflaive had the good fortune to witness, learn and experience viticulture and wine making since young. His grandfather, father and other family members were involved in things related to viticulture and later wine production (with the purchase of the family vineyard in Puligny-Montrachet back in 1905).

In 1984, Olivier Leflaive went on to set up a negociant business. But unlike negociants who would have been content with trading in completed products, he however preferred to make his own wines. Initially he bought grapes from reliable growers and began making wines under his own label. Later he acquired parcels of vineyard land and included grapes from his own land for winemaking as well.

With Franck Grux as his winemaker (since 1988), not only was he able to produce and provide quality wines to a growing market; he was also able to expand his wine portfolio from beyond those produced within Puligny-Montrachet to include those made from other parts of Burgundy as well.

A few sound initiatives introduced over the years have certainly went on to enhance customer experience and product awareness towards his wines. Olivier Leflaive set up a hotel (La Maison dÓlivier Leflaive) in Puligny-Montrachet where folks can come, stay and spend some time in the commune. It helps people to get to know his wines better and goes to promote tourism in the commune as well.

Visits are organized to his vineyard and winery to explain viticulture and the wine making process to curious wine enthusiasts. There's also wine tasting workshops to educate people on his wines, and dining experiences (at his restaurant, La table de Olivier Leflaive) which showcases wines from his portfolio.

Locally, if you are keen to get more information on Olivier Leflaive wines, you can approach  Enoteca at Tel:63371263.

Yellow Wines from Jura in Singapore

For the inquisitive wine drinker. A white wine called ‘Yellow wine’ (Vin Jaune) from the Jura wine region of France.

Though by and large white wines try to retain freshness, youthfulness and fruit notes; the vin jaune on the other hand embrace and display a partially oxidative character . They are certainly not the sort of whites produced at large in other wine growing regions of France or across the world. A little unique in style and certainly an acquired taste for the local wine consumer in Singapore.

I had the opportunity to taste yellow wines from Domaine Rolet (Jura, France) recently at Vintage Wine Club (a wine company located at 49 Jalan Pemimpin). The colour in fact does not make one sit up and take note; I believe wine consumers are used to seeing white wines come in different shades (from colourless to deep amber). But the nose will certainly make one aware of the difference a yellow wine offers when you bring the glass closer for a whiff.



Domaine Rolet , Jura
 

Antonin Pon (one of the founders of this wine establishment) explained that unlike regular white wines which upon fermentation are aged with minimal oxygen contact (in order to preserve a wine’s freshness and fruit characters); yellow wines on the other hand are aged in partially filled barrels with a layer of yeast on the wine’s surface.

It’s similar to the process a Fino sherry undergoes during its aging phase (but unlike a Fino sherry; yellow wines are not fortified prior to aging). This manner of aging (with partial contact to oxygen) results in the wine attaining a good shade of yellow and a degree of oxidative notes. Also, aging in contact with yeast makes the wine embrace aromas and flavours that the yeast imparts.

One does not easily come across yellow wines in Singapore. Luckily, for those keen to see how older vintages perform, the Vintage Club carries back vintages of these wines as well (1985, 1988, 1995, 2000 and 2005). Apart from whites, Vintage Wine Club also brings in red and sparkling wines from Jura as well too.

It presently carries  more than 200 labels from different wine growing regions in France. Wine enthusiasts can attend free tastings held every Saturday (from 11am to 5pm) to learn about these wines.

For more details, you can contact:

Antonin PON - Founder Vintage,
Wine Warehouse
Tel : +65 9851 0749 49
49 Jalan Pemimpin, Loading Bay APS Industrial Building
01-09, Singapore 577203
www.thevintageclub.sg

A Thomas Barton Reserve Wines Tasting

Jonathan Lament (the Area Sales Manager – South Asia & Oceania of Barton & Guestier) was good enough to extend an invite to the launch of Thomas Barton Reserve wines at Tippling Club. The Barton & Guestier company has a long association and history with Bordeaux wines; an history going back to the beginning of the 19th century. The Thomas Barton Reserve series are presently represented in Singapore by Letat Agencies (Tel: 62200333; enquiry@letat.com.sg)



Jonathan Lament
 

Seven wines were showcased during this tasting:

Thomas Barton Reserve Graves Blanc 2014 A Sauvignon blanc-Semillon blend. A fresh, lively sip. What struck me about this wine is the lovely mouthfeel it offers; a roundness and suppleness noticeable in palate (certainly not a lean, mean sip). Mineral and citrus flavours show in palate with lively acidity providing freshness and a lingering finish.

Thomas Barton Reserve Bordeaux 2012 A Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon blend. Black cherry and spice aromas show in the nose. Noticeable soft body with a supple texture; and a good depth reveals in the palate. A youthful sip with primary notes of ripe berry flavour and spice.

Thomas Barton Reserve St Emilion 2012 A little shy on the nose when I tasted this one. Expresses more on the palate with primary notes of dark cherry; shows a soft body with smooth texture; tannins display a little grip in the edges with acidity providing balance. Youthful, yet approachable.

Thomas Barton Reserve St Julien 2011 Blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cab Franc and Petite Verdot. Shows a gentle nose and a mellow body of cherry and berries in mid-palate. Soft tannins make this sip approachable and pleasant.

Thomas Barton Reserve Margaux 2006 Blend of Cab Sauvignon and Merlot. A sip with black cherry and spice notes in good intensity; shows a noticeable aftertaste.

Thomas Barton Reserve Privee Medoc 2005 Equal parts of Cab Sauvignon and Merlot. An elegant sip. (I must confess this was my favourite sip among the red wines for this tasting). It’s difficult not to be like this wine. Great aromatics (berry, spice, cassis and oak elements show easily) charm the drinker with layers of aroma. This is accompanied by a palate revealing a soft, smooth, very well integrated wine in an elegant body; a sip with some finesse. It charms you with great texture. This sip had the sommeliers present nodding with pleasure and murmuring approval; and going for a second taste as well.

Thomas Barton Reserve Sauternes 2009 A Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc blend. Good aromatics; ripe fruits (like pineapple, apricot and mango) show with ease. The sweetness in the palate is not cloying; a good amount of acidity takes care of that in the body.

What I enjoyed with these Bordeaux wines was the ‘approachability’ factor. You can go beyond the tannins and appreciate the fruit flavours; the smooth (and at times velvety texture experienced in palate) was another pleasing point. You can approach these wines now with some food or age them further for a future encounter.

A Provence Wine Dinner

Organized by Sopexa, it was a wine dinner which showcased local cuisine paired with rose wines from Provence (at New Ubin Seafood Restaurant).

Mr Francois Milo, Director of Provence Wine Council and Edwin Soon (author of Wines of France) were at hand to share with us about rose wines and its versatility with local cuisine.

While these two experienced food and wine enthusiasts shared with us their past experiences and opinions on this subject, we the guests had the opportunity to pursue some experiential learning ourselves by trying a variety of local seafood dishes (and steak too, not to forget that one) with a variety of rose wines.

The 5 rose wines we tasted during dinner were:

2014 Rimauresq 'R' Cru Classé Rose, Côtes de Provence AOP
(Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, Rolle and Cab Sauvignon varietals).

2013 Le Pas Du Moine Rose, Château Gassier, Côtes de Provence Sainte-Victoire AOP
(Ugni Blanc, Grenache, Syrah, Rolle and Cinsault varietals).

2013 Chateau d'Esclans Cotes de Provence Whispering Angel Rose, Provence
(Grenache and Rolle varietals).

2014 Domaine De La Croix Cru Classe, Cotes de Provence AOC
(Grenache, Cinsault, Tibouren, Mourvedre, Cab Sauvignon and Syrah varietals).

2014 Chateau Paradis Coteaux dÁix en Provence
(Grenache, Syrah & Sauvignon Blanc varietals).

By and large one can identify 2 noticeable styles among these rose wines. A few showed themselves with a light and gentle body, refreshing acidity, lovely minerality with subtle citrus and red fruit notes. Dry, pale coloured, refreshing rose wines true to nature to delight one’s palate on a hot evening and certainly soothe one’s soul with a lightness of being about them. You can sip a glass, then another for good measure and you get to feel relaxed, happy and wanting some more; a great aperitif, a happy sip I dare say.

Then there were the ones exhibiting a study body and structure, good body weight and with a degree of seriousness about them. Rose wines exhibiting a stronger flavour intensity, with a sense of depth and complexity about them. The latter were rose wines which make one pause and take heed of their character and personality.

The lighter styled wines were a delight to have on their own, though when paired with food of strong flavour intensity or body weight, these wines played a more passive/background role in the pairing. The 'sturdier' rose wines (though a tad serious to have on their own) complemented and stood well when paired with local dishes. What’s important to note is the fact that neither style of rose wines actually clashed with the food for the evening or made for a bad combination.

The lower tannin level exhibited in an average rose wine (as opposed to a still, red wine like Shiraz, Malbec or Cab Sauvignon) makes for the rose’s advantage when chosen as pairing companion for local cuisine. Tannic, red wines can present a challenge when paired with oily, salty or spicy food dishes (and some local dishes can easily go the way of such flavour characteristics). And one sips rose wines chilled; a pleasant and ideal temperature to negotiate local dishes on a hot evening I dare say.

Compared to a few years ago, there appears presently a growing awareness and acceptance among wine enthusiasts with regards to rose wines. One reason could be that more wine enthusiasts are taking up wine courses and therefore are willing to be open minded about consuming different types of wine. Another reason could be that holiday makers are including wine regions within their itinerary when travelling abroad these days and come back willing to try new sips. The hot weather in recent weeks, with the assurance of more such days in the near future, puts up a convincing argument for rose wines as well. Whatever the particular reason, prospects for rose wine consumption seem better these days than before.

More pictures of this dinner can be viewed via this link: Provence Wine Dinner

Champagne Nomine-Renard Trade Tasting

Ms Cecilia Nomine of Champagne Nomine Renard was in town a week ago to showcase her Estate’s ‘grower’ champagnes. Enoteca (the local representative and distributor) took the opportunity to organize a trade tasting for local F&B folks.

Jason Koh (of Enoteca) & Cecilia Nomine (of Champagne Nomine-Renard)
 

Champagne Nomine-Renard

“First and foremost we are Winegrowers. Each generation has passed on to the next the same passion for our vineyard”, so states a brochure on this winery. Champagne Nomine-Renard was founded by Andre and Germaine Nomine. In 1971 they released their first champagne under this estate’s label. They were however not new to this region. Earlier generations have owned the land and have been making a living as grape growers. Presently their son Claude Nomine and grandson Simon Nomine manage this estate. Being an independent grower and producer allows them the luxury to control quality from grape growing to champagne production.

Viticulture

This estate owns 20 hectares of vineyard land. It may not appear ‘large’; but this is the Champagne region. Cecilia explains that 58% of growers have less than 1 hectare of vineyard land; they tend to sell their grapes to big Champagne Houses and co-operatives rather than make any champagne of their own. Only 12% of growers have over 5 hectares of vineyard land. Plots get split into smaller parcels with each successive generation dividing the land among a few children.

Nomine-Renard’s vineyard is not a single land parcel; it is spread over 36 plots within 6 villages (these villages are located among 3 distinctive regions):

Coteaux du Petit Morin Region
Village Etoges: mainly Chardonnay and a little Pinot Noir grown here.
Village Villevenard: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier.

Cote de Sezanne Region
Village Broyes: Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
Village Allemant: only Chardonnay.

Vallee de la Marne Region
Village Charly sur Marne: only Pinot Noir
Village Passy-Grigny: only Pinot Meunier

Operating at a latitude of 49 degrees North can pose a challenge to most grape growers. Frost can wreck good harvest (and have done so in previous years). Powdery mildew, downy mildew, grey rot and insects present their own challenges to vine health as well. The use of sulphur, copper or any other product to ensure vine health is undertaken with great care. Cecilia explains that a fine balance has to be struck between the desire to produce healthy grapes and the need to preserve the health of the land (and the quality of soils). Sustainable agricultural practices are adopted within the vineyard to ensure the land is kept healthy.

Vinification

Each grape variety and grapes from each of the 36 plots are pressed and vinified separately. This offers a range of ‘terroir specific’ base wines as blending components for the cellar master to work with. Stainless steel containers are used to preserve the wine’s freshness and fruit flavours. Upon second fermentation the bottles are aged for 3 years, a period longer than required under current champagne rules. The bottles are laid to rest in a cellar located 9 metres underground. This ensures a constant, cool temperature and a 75% humidity level; both ideal for wine development and aging.

Once dosage is added, the bottles rest for another 6 months (for the components to integrate) before release to the market. Each champagne producer strives for a house style which he hopes to recreate in future productions. When queried, Cecilia answered that Nomine-Renard strives to show ‘freshness, elegance and minerality’ in their champagnes. Presently 10,000 cases of champagne are produced annually.

Champagnes

During the recent tasting we had the opportunity to taste 4 of this Estate’s champagnes.

Brut Nominee. Chardonnay 40%, Pinot Noir 30%, Pinot Meunier 30%.
(pale yellow-gold; pear and apple aromas; crisp, fresh body showing minerals, good acidity in palate)

Brut Rose. Chardonnay 50%, Pinot Meunier 50%.
(light pink; red berry aroma; delicate, crisp, fresh body with lively berry flavours, pleasant finish)

Brut Reserve. Chardonnay 100%.
(pale yellow; minerals and toasty hints showing in aroma; good structure and minerality in body)

Special Club 2008. Chardonnay 80%, Pinot Noir 20%.
(yellow; fine bubbles, acidity offering good structure to body, complex and elegant, minerality showing in palate)

The ‘Club 2008’ is a special wine. To date, this cuvee has been produced for 6 vintages only. In order to produce this Special Club wine, this estate has to be a member of the ‘Tressors de Champagne’ Club. It’s a club formed in 1971 by a group of grower champagne producers striving to promote quality in champagnes they produce. Membership is by invitation and one gets admitted only if a grower champagne producer shares a similar ideal for quality viticultural and vinification practices as required of Club members. To date, there are 28 members (and Nomine-Renard is one of the founding member of this club). A Special Club cuvee is only permitted to be produced by a member after certain quality criterias are fulfilled. The 'Club'champagne comes in a bottle specially designed for Club members.

This Estate also produces a demi-sec. It was not presented during the tasting; but is nonetheless available in Singapore.

Export Market

This estate's 3 largest export markets are Luxemburg, Norway and Japan. In South East Asia, these champagnes can be found in China, Hong Kong, Japan, South Korea and Singapore.

Local Distributor Contact

Enoteca Co. Ltd (Jason Koh); Tel: 63371263

Local Retail Outlet

Enoteca Wine Shop, #B2-02, Takashimaya Departmental Store; Tel: 68363068

Pictures of the Trade Tasting

To view pictures of the trade tasting, follow this link:
Champagne Nomine-Renard Trade Tasting Photo Album

Identifying a grower champagne

Champagnes from big 'Champagne Houses' like Veuve Clicquot, Dom Perignon, Moet & Chandon, Krug, Gosset and GH Mumm have been around in Singapore for quite a while and wine consumers are familiar with these labels. But how can a wine consumer identify a bottle of grower champagne when at a wine retail outlet?

One way is to look for a fine print (a 2-lettered initial) appearing on the front label of a champagne bottle. It shows who the producer of the champagne is:
'RM': champagne produced by a grower using grapes he grow (a grower champagne).
'NM': champagne produced by a Champagne House which purchases grapes from growers.
Others initial one may come across are 'CM', 'RC', 'MA' and 'SR'. You can get more information of these initials at 'Types of Champagne Producers'.

For those curious and keen on numbers, I was able to obtain the following information from Cecilia on the current number of producers:
Number of RM (grower champagne producers) = 1,951
Number of NM (big Champagne House producers) = 392
Number of cooperatives = 40

The total champagne production for year 2013 = 25 million cases
Production (in %) by Big Houses = 78%
Production by rest = 22%

Local restaurants carrying grower champagnes

If you are looking for local eateries carrying grower champagnes, you may wish to visit the following:
Restaurant Andre at 41 Bukit Pasoh Road.
Pollen (Gardens by the Bay) at 18 Marina Gardens Drive.

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Champagne Jacquart tasting in Singapore

Ms Floriane Eznack, presently a wine maker with Champagne Jacquart, was recently in Singapore to introduce some of its wines to the folks in the wine trade over here. Auric Pacific (a local wine distributor) played host while Praelum Wine bistro at Duxtion Hill offered its place for the tasting. Since these wines were still ‘unchartered sips’ for me, I took the opportunity to go hear about the producers, taste their wares and take some pictures of this session.

Ms Floriane attest her interest and love for wine to her father. A wine lover, he used to guide her in her youth by sharing with her his love for wine and spending time indulging in ‘blind tasting sessions’ with her. She went on to cultivate knowledge about things wine by attending several winemaking courses and working as a cellar hand with winemakers. In 2004 she graduated from the Reims Oenology School and in 2006 began work with Veuve Clicquot. Jan 2011 saw her filling the position of Head winemaker at Jacquart and her involvement with this brand ever since.

Ms Floriane Eznack with Auric Pacific reps

This brand began 5 decades ago when a group of growers decided to produce champagne under their own label rather than be contented with merely growing grapes and selling them to middlemen and existing champagne houses. Call it restlessness, discontentment, growing aspiration, wanting to ensure the continued survival of their vineyards or striving for a better control over their own destiny (could be one or a combination of reasons), the growers set about producing wine under the Jacquart label. Fast forward 35 years and in 1998 three growers’ co-operatives came together to form the Alliance Champagne Group which presently manages the Jacquard brand.

Being a ‘grower co-operative producer’ has its advantages. The Alliance Champagne Group works with 1800 growers and operates 2400 hectares of land (which roughly represents around 7% of the land under vine in the Champagne region). These growers are located all over the Champagne region with grapes being mainly sourced from Marne Valley, Montagne de Reims, Cote des Blancs and Cote des Bars. These factors help Jacquart with having a ready access to grapes grown in different terroirs from which to craft its champagnes.

Though over the decades Jacquart has produced a variety of champagnes and sold them under its label, recent management initiative the last 2 years has brought a refocus to 5 main types of champagne for present production under its label. These are:

1. The non-vintage Brut Mosaique (a wine made since Jacquart’s beginnings ). Dominated by chardonnay and supported by pinot noir and pinot menuir, it sells on its freshness.

2. The non-vintage Rose (known as the Brut Mosaique in ‘pink’). 

3. The non-vintage Extra Brut conveying a drier expression of the regular Mosaique with extra aging on the lees made to add complexity and character to the wine’s body. Its first release into the market was in 2007.

4. The vintage Blanc de Blancs (100% chardonnay), and

5. The Nominee made from the best crus of chardonnay and pinor noir (like those found in Mailly, Avize and Chouilly), and aged for 6 years in cellar before release.

During the trade tasting in Singapore we had the opportunity to taste 5 of its champagnes. 

Champagne Jacquart wines

They were:

Champagne Jacquart Brut Mosaïque N.V.,

Champagne Jacquart Brut Rose Mosaique N.V.

Champagne Jacquart Blanc de Blancs N.V.,

Champagne Jacquart Brut Mosaïque 2002 and

Champagne Jacquart Brut de Nominée 1999.

The Burt Mosaique and Brut Rose showed themselves as easy drinking sips showcasing freshness, fruit expressions and a pleasant finish. Both the Blanc de Blancs and the Mosaique 2002 displayed more character in nose and palate, certainly showed a firmer structure and a complex body than the earlier two wines. These 2 wines were the favourite of the trade folks for this session; the group almost equally divided in favouring one or the other.The Nominee 1999 was a curiosity; brooding and still evolving, it has some years to go before it fully expresses itself. Consumers would do well to let this Nominee age a little longer before popping one for a curious sip.

In one way Champagne Jacquart can be viewed as a ‘new comer’ into the champagne producing fraternity. It does not have a ‘long’ history which some houses like Moet & Chandon, Lois Roederer or Pommery can lay claim to. But then again every champagne House has to begin at some point in time, sustain itself against trials and succeed over time before history gives us a story to tell. We can happily note that the Jacquart has of recent survived through 50 years of operation and is growing successfully. Its champagne is presently distributed in more than 60 countries (the top 3 being France, UK and Germany) and sales of 3 million bottles in 2011 gives hint of its success.

(If you like to see some pictures taken during the trade tasting in Singapore, you can take a peek in www.facebook/spiceinwine ).


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The Chateau d'Esclans rose wines

I attended a rose-themed wine session last year. The rose wines were made from different varietals like cabernet sauvignon, merlot, pinot noir, syrah, sangiovese, grenache; and quite a few of these wines were made from blends. Each participant kept note of his 3 favourite pours and contributed his choices later for some number crunching. The top favourite for the evening was a Chateau D’ Esclans rose wine, the Whispering Angel (a name one finds difficult to forget). This rose wine, made from a grenache blend, displayed a soft, silky texture which matched well with the subtle flavours of its body; something which the other varietals found challenging to outdo that evening.

Ch d'Esclans booth at WFA 2011, Singapore

During the recent Wine For Asia 2011 held in Singapore, I had the opportunity to taste Chateau d’Esclans’ series of rose wines. Ms Kate Tan, Singapore’s representative for this chateau, was good enough to introduce the wines to me.

Ms Kate Tan, Singapore rep of Ch d'Esclans

The first sip I tasted was the 2010 Chateau d’Esclans “Whispering Angel”, made from a blend of grenache, rolle, syrah, cinsault and tibouren varietals. This salmon-pink wine thrills one’s nose and palate with delicate, fresh red fruit notes, while the underlying minerals delight the palate and renders a pleasant finish. The Whispering Angel does not see any oak during its vinification process and therefore goes on to display an unhindered fruit fresh character.

2010 Ch d'Esclans "Whispering Angel"

The next 3 wines see a certain level of oak during their vinification process. This adds a certain depth to their body and a noticeable firmness to their body structure. The firmness witnessed in the palate grows as one proceeds from the 2009 “Esclans, to the 2008 “Les Clans” and finally to the 2008 “Garrus”. All 3 wines are made from grenache and rolle blends; with the “Les Clans” and “Garrus” made from 100% free run juice to add.

2009 Ch d'Esclans "Esclans"

2008 Ch d'Esclans "Les Clans"

2008 Ch d'Esclans "Garrus"

Some common characteristics seen in these 3 wines are the good display of fruit characters, complex bodies, a rich texture on the palate, and a firm body structure which renders these wines with the potential to be paired with more than just appetizers and starters during a meal.

(There’s ample tasting notes out there for the curious wine enthusiasts on these wines without the need for me to add some more).

Setting aside price-quality ratio of each of these rose wines, I am perfectly happy with the entry level “Whispering Angel” as my favoured sip for a hot afternoon with a sandwich or two; something pleasing, easy on the palate and thirst quenching.

When considering the price-quality ratio, I find the "Whispering Angel" a value for money rose wine to appreciate what comes out of this Chateau.

Recently a few of us began dinner at the Sin Hoi Sai eatery in Tiong Bahru with a plate of gong-gong and sips of Whispering Angel :p I am happy with this rose :)

You can buy this one at Changi Airport’s DFS section, The Wine Gallery outlets and at Ponti Wine Cellars. I am sure there a few other wine retail outlets in Singapore carrying the Chateau d’Esclans rose wines.


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Burgundy Wine Tasting Sessions at Ponti Wine Cellars

Burgundian wines at Ponti; twice this month at that. A good friend of mine recently started pursuing a wine course and all of a sudden decided to taste some wines from Burgundy to enrich her studies. Ponti Wine Cellars was having burgundy wine tasting sessions for the month of December and that’s the place which drew her attention to improve on her tasting skills.

I assured her that this particular wine course she’s pursuing does not have a ‘wine tasting component’ as part of the assessment (its purely multiple choice questions to attempt). Nevertheless she insisted, making me half suspect that the desire to sip Burgundy wines had something to do with more than fulfilling educational curiosity. Luckily places were still available for 2 burgundy tasting sessions and we signed up for both.

The first tasting was on 1 Dec. The rain that day was kind enough to take a brief respite by late afternoon and allowed for a dry journey to Ponti’s retail outlet at 204 Telok Ayer Street. There were around 10 folks that evening keen on the tasting session as well. The wines were from Domaine Jean Chartron. We tasted 5 wine (4 whites and 1 red):
2008 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Vieilles Vignes,
2008 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Folatieres,
2008 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos du Cailleret,
2008 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos du Cailleret Rouge and
2008 Rully Montmorin.

The second tasting session was on 8 Dec. This time it was an evening for red burgundian fare from Domaine Mongeard-Mugneret:
2004 Echezeauz Grand Cru,
2004 Vosne Romanee Village,
2005 Nuits-Saint Georges Les Plateaux Village and
2007 Beaune 1er Cru Les Avaux.

Ms Angelina Foo (from Ponti’s) conducted both sessions in a casual, informal yet informative manner; providing information about the domaines, addressing queries from curious enthusiasts and sharing her opinion on how these wines spoke to her. I must say her friendly demeanour made wine enthusiasts feel at ease and mid-way through these sessions there was comfortable mingling among the evening’s guests.

 

Both sessions showed wines which would do well with a little more aging. If I am to pick 2 wines from the first session for personal indulgence, they would be the 2008 Rully Monmorin (for youthful flavours and vibrancy on the palate) and the 2008 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Folatieres (for displaying good depth and structure in the body).

My choices from the second session would be the 2004 Echezeauz Grand Cru (for the varied subtle aromas displayed on the nose) and the 2007 Beaune 1er Cru Les Avaux (for the texture and flavours seen on the palate).

Visit the shop if you are around the corner; it has a decent range of French and Italian wines, not forgetting Austrian dessert wines too :p

For more pictures on these tastings visit: www.facebook.com/spiceinwine